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OMEGA’s complicated calibers, including chronographs, were produced by Lemania.ĭuring this era Lemania was an industry leader in manual winding chronograph movements but lagged behind Zenith, Seiko, and the Chronomatic team (Heuer, Breitling, Buren, and Dubois-Depraz) by nearly two years in bringing a self-winding chronograph movement to market.ĭespite being late Lemania’s product was arguably superior. THE SPEEDMASTER 125 AND OMEGA’S EARLY AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPHSĪutomatic chronographs were still relatively new to the market, first arriving in 1969 and heralded as the last great complication.
They had incrementally been introducing new evolutions of the Speedmaster, starting with the Mark II in 1969, a beefy tonneau-cased chronograph with caliber 861, and had gone automatic in the futuristic pilot-cased Mark III in 1971.
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As such, the obvious choice for the 125th anniversary watch was a Speedmaster.ĭespite already being known as the Moonwatch, the manual-winding Speedmaster Professional reference ST 145.022 was not necessarily seen as the future of the chronograph family by OMEGA. This time it was a chronograph, which itself was an achievement: the world’s first chronometer-certified automatic chronograph, the reference ST 378.0801 / 178.0002.Īs successful as the Constellations were, their flagship status for the brand received competition in 1969 when the Speedmaster Professional became the first watch worn on the moon. Twenty-five years later, OMEGA once again released a chronometer to commemorate the occasion. The success of the Centenary led to the creation of the Constellation family, which of course went on to be one of the brands’ crowning achievements in terms of precision and accuracy. OMEGA had previously celebrated their centennial in 1948 with the Centenary (references 24), which were OMEGA’s first production automatic chronometer wristwatches. The firm eventually became known as OMEGA, and in 1973 the company intended to celebrate their 125th anniversary in a big way. OMEGA traces its history as a brand back to 1848 when Louis Brandt established his humble “comptoir d’etablissage”. WHATS IN A NAME A TRUE ACHIEVEMENT OMEGA’S ANNIVERSARY WATCHES The truth behind this special timepiece is going to be revealed. This story contradicts much of what was published previously and changes the narrative of the 125 from the sad tale of an oversized and unloved historical footnote to that of a smashing hit for OMEGA, which sold well despite high prices and strong headwinds in a market in crisis.
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To this day, the Speedmaster 125 remains shrouded in mystery and has proven to be perhaps the most misunderstood and beguiling Speedmaster produced by OMEGA over the past 60-plus years.īy combining new information uncovered in the OMEGA archives and observation of hundreds of watches over several years of research, we are now proud to tell the full story of this legendary timepiece. Yet despite all these undeniable facts, the 125 has been saddled with a reputation as a failure among certain collectors – a reputation unfairly earned. It measures as one of the biggest and most ostentatious Speedmasters ever produced. It featured a unique movement, dial, case, and bracelet. It was the world’s first chronometer-certified automatic chronograph.
The Speedmaster 125, reference ST 378.0801, is a watch that achieved an important technical milestone and has many well-deserved superlatives attached to it. The watch achieved strong sales in the peak years of Swiss production and continued selling well when the long boom cycle abruptly ended and fell into deep recession. This watch was aimed at affluent customers and collectors, marketed to celebrate an important anniversary, and priced at a significant premium to other pieces in the OMEGA product line. Several decades ago, a Swiss watch was introduced that broke new ground technically and stylistically.
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Andy K, June 2019 SPEEDMASTER 125 ONLY PDF Speedmaster-125-Only-by-WBO To see my previous research from 20, check the menu above for links to those articles. This is a collaborative work with Grégoire Rossier and Anthony Marquié, the authors behind Watch Books Only, and includes new information uncovered at the OMEGA Museum archives and validates the research I previously published at. An important milestone in horology, the Speedmaster 125 can finally be understood properly. Read on to learn the about this remarkable timepiece: a watch that was a hugely popular success in its day that has had its story unfairly twisted over the years due to a simple mistake.
The Speedmaster 125’s bold, forward-looking design was fitting for such an important achievement. The OMEGA Speedmaster 125, introduced in 1973 to celebrate 125 years since OMEGA’s foundation, is the world’s first chronometer-certified automatic chronograph watch.
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